Amsterdam, with a compact metro population of 1.5 million, is about the size of Columbus. It, too, is a capital city with a diverse population that is open and genuinely friendly. Here, however, the similarities essentially end. For example, there are 600,000 bicycles in use, 165 canals, 2,500 canal houseboats, 232 streetcars (trams), 55 theaters and concert halls, 51 museums, 165 antique shops, 1,250 restaurants and 6,800 16th-, 17th- and 18th-century buildings.

If you go, find a hotel near the Central Station, which will put you within easy walking distance of the colorful Jordaan neighborhood, with its bustling open-air Noodermarkt and the notorious Red Light District, jammed with bars, restaurants, nightclubs and more than 300 window brothels scattered along dozens of ancient alleyways near Oud Kerk Square. Forget the rental car. Public transportation is efficient and economical, and all the major attractions are never more than a few minutes stroll from a tram or bus stop.

Museums. There are more than 30 world-class museums with vast collections that can keep you busy for weeks. Our favorites included the Van Gogh Museum (www.vangoghmuseum.nl), with 200 paintings and 500 drawings by Van Gogh, as well as works by his artist friends such as Gauguin and Monet; and the Rijksmuseum (www.rijksmuseum.nl), considered among the world’s greatest. Built in 1877, it houses more than 5,000 paintings and 800,000 prints and drawings.

Across town in the old Jewish Quarter is the Rembrandt House (www.rembrandthuis.com), purchased by the artist in 1639 for an astronomical 13,000 guilders and home to Rembrandt and his wife Saskia for 20 years. It is filled with many of the Old Master’s graphic works and a vast collection of other art and artifacts. Nearby is the Hermitage Amsterdam (www.hermitage.nl), recently opened along the Amstel River. Housed in a stately 19th century building, the museum serves as an outpost of the famed St. Petersburg Hermitage.

The Joods Historich Museum (www.jhm.nl) is comprised of four restored 17th- and 18th-century Ashkenazi synagogues, where multi-media exhibits illustrate the influence of the Jews on Dutch culture and its political life. Across town, we waited in the long line to enter the Anne Frank Huis (www.annefrank.org), visited annually by more than 1 million people. The power of the experience lies in how the cramped quarters have been maintained without glitzy signage or technology to enable the viewer to wander through the narrow, four-story hideaway and feel the fear Anne and her family endured for more than two years before they were discovered and exterminated in a number of concentration camps.

Dining. With more than 150 nationalities residing in Amsterdam, every conceivable cuisine from traditional Dutch to Italian, Chinese to Indian and Indonesian to Thai can be experienced. In fact, there are more than 1,000 restaurants and 1,500 pubs and cafes. We usually relaxed over lunch after touring several museums or neighborhoods at a historic Brown Café (bruin café). These pubs are celebrated for their picturesque dark interiors turned brown by centuries of age and cigarette smoke and their gezellig, a Dutch term meaning intimate, warm and cozy. Our favorites included Moti Mahal (Indian, www.motimahal.nl), Puri Mas (Indonesian, www.purimas.nl), Ristorante Savini (Italian, www.savini.nl), Restaurant De Kroonprins in Hotel Prins Hendrik (www.hotels.nl/amsterdam/ prinshendrik/) and the lounge in the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky (www.hotels.nl/amsterdam/ krasnapolsky/), overlooking Dam Square.

Where we stayed. The Crowne Plaza Amsterdam City Center, in the heart of the historic city, is minutes away from Central Station and a 20-minute train ride from Schiphol International Airport. The service was excellent and there are dozens of restaurants, pubs and shops surrounding the hotel. We had a great meal at its renowned Dorrius Restaurant, noted for its Dutch cuisine since 1890. (www.amsterdam-citycenter.crowneplaza.com)

I AMsterdam Card. We found this card to be of great value and the best way to discover Amsterdam. For 53 euros, you have a “ticket” for 72 hours for free entry to more than 20 museums, the Portuguese Synagogue (unfortunately the Anne Frank House is not included), canal cruises, bus and street car transportation and major discounts at top restaurants, nightclubs and tours in and around the city. The card is available at tourism offices, museums and shops throughout the city. (www.amsterdamtourist.nl).

Columbus-based travel writer Aaron Leventhal is publisher of High Street Neighborhoods.
Photo by Beth Ervin Leventhal.